Where the Horses Race and Mumbaikars Bet

Mahalaxmi Racecourse isn’t just home to the most lucrative races in all of India. The racetrack — established under British colonial rule in 1883 — is also a pastoral oasis near the heart of this teeming city. The green swath on display from inside the whitewashed grandstand induces a welcome sense of languor, one that is periodically interrupted when the horses approach the starting gate before a race.

While the highlight of the season – the Indian Derby, held in the spring – attracts throngs of well-dressed socialites to the lawns and grandstand, a normal Thursday or Sunday of racing at the track (Race Course, Mahalaxmi; 91-22-2307-1401; www.rwitc.com) is a laid-back affair. Admission is just 20 rupees (about 45 cents), and the minimum bet at the windows is only 10. That means it’s possible to pick a horse for all eight races, lose every time, and still have lost only a few dollars on the day.

Or, for a livelier betting experience, head to the officially sanctioned Bookmakers Ring, a crowded, covered spot just next to the paddock. Here at a dozen stalls, bookmakers are constantly updating the odds for the upcoming race. You’ll see the latest odds at each stall scribbled on a chalkboard next to the horse’s name. If you chose to bet here, the embossed card, with the bookmaker’s name and the details of your bet, makes for a nice souvenir — provided you don’t win and get to trade it in for a wad of rupees.

Then return to the grandstand, watch the kites idly swooping overhead, and wait for the thoroughbreds to approach the starting gate.